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WorkShop > Yankee Intruder > Jet

The Yankee Intruder
by; C. Gustave Sandberg (Sandy)

Sandy@YankeeCruisah.com
Yankee Jet Kit
Adjusting the carburetor pilot screw
I've adjusted the pilot screws, and basically followed the instructions for installing the Dyna-Jet Kit, but didn't actually install it. The idea here is to enrichen the mixture a little. Now a little is good and more is better? Not quite, but it does help on even stock mufflers and systems since the EPA has got the manufactures so scared they err on the side of lean.


Here is some input from Mr Suzi:
on the Intruder Alert Message Board

TO REJET OR NOT TO REJET ...

THERE IS NO QUESTION. HERE'S THE FACTS:
1) A lean mixture will make your bike run hotter.
2) An over rich mixture will have extra unburned gas on your cylinder walls, which will act much like a detergent and wash away the thin oil coating.....which will increase wear. (and decrease gas mileage too).
3) I'm running factory jets with baffled Cobras.
After doing a check of the spark plugs, I'm convinced its still within a normal range.
4) The procedure for checking is:
(After much tinkering with various scooters, I prefer to use a small wire drill set and drill out to the right condition......Just takes some patience on a Sat afternoon)
MR. SUZI


more input

RE: carb adj.
The front carb (on my 1400) was turned out two and a half (turns) while the back was turned out only a half turn.
I adjusted both carbs two and a half...found the bike ran very well, but the spark plugs were on the dark side.
I then set both carbs at two turns out...bike still ran good and the plugs were a tan color, good.
There is no more high speed surging.. no more popping through the carb...no more stalling at idle... and no more popping through the exhaust.
The bike has never ran this good.
I have only 6489 KM on the clock, bought it last June. I owned a Suzuki 800 before this one.
Three of us got together and we each bought a 1400 intruder.
Thanks again Sandy,
Keep in touch.
Safe riding
lawn.c@sympatico.ca
Chris

re-jet or more chrome? you decide . . .

Much thanks dude!!
I had an appointment to have my carbs rejetted,
the guy moved it a couple of days and I was impatiant so I did your yankee carb mod....
I blew off that appointment!
Runs perfect, I did the 4th gear full throttle....plugs look perfect.!
I took my rejet cash and bought a new windshield and some chrome,
Life is Good!
Also the link in the yankee mods sect. to my pics is awesome!
That makes a whole winter in my garage worth while .. just seeing that!
Thanks again bro!
jon c


1400 Procedure

Tools you will need; 1/8" drill bit (long), drill (cord or cordless), #6 Sheet Metal Screw, Long thin Screwdriver, Flashlight (to see in the shaded areas).

Both adjustments are accessible from the sides without any parts coming off.

Please read this entire guide through before starting,

we are about to mess with a delicate part of our machine.

The front cylinder's carb is between the cylinders, and you get at it from the left side of the bike (as you are sitting on it), but of course you can't be sitting on it and do this adjustment.
So get off to the left, kneel down and look to the rear of and past the choke (actually enrichment) control.
The aluminum thing you see there is the carburetor. Near the throttle cable attachment is what looks like a Brass disk about 1/4" in diameter.
This is a plug used to keep us from doing what we are about to do. In the middle of this plug is a hole, but we have to drill this hole out a little more so we can pull the plug out. Use a long shaft drill bit to get by the choke knob, I used a #36 or a 3/32", others have used a 1/8" which is the tap size for a #6 sheet metal or sheet rock screw.
Carefully drill the small hole larger until you just feel it bite in at the end.
STOP.
If you go too far you will mess up the adjustment screw behind the plug.
Now I got lucky and as the drill just bit the inside edge of one of the plugs it turned and came out on the drill, didn't have to use the screw at all.
If you aren't that lucky, as I wasn't half the time, you now thread in the sheet metal screw slowly into the brass plug.
Once it gets a good bite on the brass, slowly pull with pliers and rock it back and forth 'til it pulls out.
Inside you can see another brass thing but this one has a slot in it.
Use a long narrow small tipped screw driver and turn this control counter-clockwise about 1/4 turn.
You get to repeat this on the other side now.
The rear carb is on the right side of the bike, just in front of the Air Box cover, directly below where the seat and tank meet, and in the crotch of the frame.
Again drill carefully, screw, and pull.
Tweak (that's a technical term meaning turn) the adjustment counter-clockwise 1/4 turn.
Now the fun part. "Gentlemen … start your engines".
If the popping is gone … good. Try a run to see how it feels. If it still pops, try turning (or tweaking) the carb a little more, about 1/8 turn counter-clockwise .
For mine, that was it. Better sound, no popping, MUCH smoother acceleration (so much so it felt like more power, but others have dyno'd it and said no more HP, but you could fool me).
The big thing I noticed was the lean surge was gone. Previously at around 40 to 50 MPH at a constant throttle the bike would chatter the drive shaft, with small accell / de-accell spurts.
That is now gone and it feels better.


1500 Info

Dan 'Bookem' sent us this addition for the Intruder 1500
The screws are on the bottom front center of each carb. They sit about 3/4 " behind the front head, so there is no way to adjust while running. I even bought the special tool from Motion Pro for that purpose but it wouldn't fit either. Maybe use that tool and grind off about a half inch. ('course the tool is $28.00!!) Ended up setting static by pulling carbs up, adjusting, and trying it out. Finally ended up with 3/4 turn out on each. (total 3 turns front cyl., 2-7/8 turns back cyl.) I went to the next bigger jet on each (115 f; 112.5 b) and shimmed the needles .020".

Bookem
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