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	WorkShop > Yankee Intruder > License

The Yankee Intruder
by; C. Gustave Sandberg (Sandy)

Intro
I've always thought the license plate looked like an 'add-on'.
I love the 'bob-tail' look of the rear fender, but the plate looked like an after thought.
Description
What this mod does is, eliminate the Plate light, remove some of the bracket to allow the Plate to be mounted up next to the Brake light and, modify the Brake light lens so it can illuminate the Plate.
This streamlines the back end, and removes that dangling plate look.

Tools Needed
10mm, 8mm Socket and ratchet
Metal cutting Saw
Bench Vise (or strong friend)
Drill and 6mm or 1/4" bit
Dremel Tool or fine saw to cut plastic
a small (scrap) piece of plexi-glass or semi clear plastic)
Small rat tail file
enough nerve to attempt this

Instruction
To start, this is one of those mods that you can't do 'on the bike'.

You will need to get the entire bracket assembly off. Fortunately this isn't very hard.
The rear seat needs to be removed, so take off the sissy bar pad, unlock the secret tool compartment, and remove the screw that holds the rear seat on with your trusty '10mm' socket. Then tip the rear seat toward the front and lift off of the front hook.

The bracket is held on by four (4) bolts(10mm socket) up under the rear fender. Remove these 4 and follow the two (2) wires for the Stop Light, and Plate Light up through the rear fender hole.
This is why the rear seat has to be removed. Under a plastic cover are the connections for the lights. The Plate light is two single pin connectors, while the Brake light is a 3 pin white plastic connector.
Carefully unplug the connections. I used a needle nose plier to grip the single piece connectors so as not to pull the wire loose.
Feed the Plate wires down through the hole first, then the larger Brake connector will fit.

To get down to just the bracket, remove the nuts holding on the Plate holder, and the Brake Light itself.
And for simplicity remove the rubber mounts and posts.

Please read through this and visualize it before doing any cutting. I didn't take any before pictures, so all I have are afters.
If you can't 'see' it, send me an email so I can clarify it for you, remember;

This is the all-ready cut Bracket. A is Top or the fender mount. B is the Brake Light Slope. C is the Step we cut. D is the Plate Slope. E are the cuts needed to make the new bend.

You'll notice the bracket looked at from the side is something in the form of a step.
Something like; a flat top (where it mounts to the fender), a sloped drop (where the Brake light mounts), a flat step, then a sloped drop where the Plate holder mounts.
For brevity lets call them; the top(A) (fender mount), the Brake slope(B), the step (C), and the Plate slope(D).
This Plate slope(D) is the offensive part we are about to exorcise. (ghoulish laughter), (cue the hack saw)
We will cut the bracket on the step(C) just before the bend to the Plate slope(D). Notice the side returns that supply strength to the bent bracket.
We must retain a good portion of the step(C) to re-mount the plate holder, so cut it just before the side return gets too large at the bend, from the step to the Plate slope.
Now we must straighten the bracket so we can re-mount the Plate holder.
First, the side returns must be notched so we can bend the bracket. With a straight edge, mark a line on the side return, at the Brake slope to step bend, that follows the Brake slope line.
Next draw another line at the bend that goes from the inside V of the bend to the outside V of the bend on the return.
Repeat this on the other sides return.
Between these lines is the section needed to be removed(E) so the bracket angle can be closed.
Carefully cut down both lines on the return until almost to the V of the bend.
Don't go too far or the strength of the bend will be compromised.
I used a rat tail file, but you could drill it, but round the cut down to the flat so as not to make a sharp (therefore brittle) edge.
After doing both sides, now we un-bend the bend.
If you don't have a strong friend, clamp the step(C) in a vise and push the top(A) to close the bend 'til the side returns meet at the cut we made.
I left the un-bent bend at a little angle, don't over bend, and if the notches you made aren't large enough STOP pushing, and cut away a little more.
Don't bend and re-bend as this will weaken the metal and break off the step.

Next temporarily remount the Brake light, and place the Plate holder under it to find the position of the mounting holes to be drilled.
I didn't bother with the fully suspended rubber mount for the Plate holder as it was originally made.
I drilled two 6mm (or about 1/4") clearance holes in the step (now part of the Brake slope) to mount the Plate holder just under the Brake light lens.
Make sure you can remove the lens with the plate mounted.
Mount the plate holder with original hardware or I used some original and some from the (ex) Plate light.

	This is the Brake Light Lense. Notice the clear area of the lens. This used to be black, but was cut out and replaced by a thin clear plastic piece glued in place. This opened section, illuminates the moved plate.

Remove the Brake light lens by loosening the two small screws going through it.
Notice the Red lens, has a black bottom, toward the (now re-located) Plate.
Using the Dremel tool or what ever you feel comfortable with cutting plastic, cut out the Black area of the lens.
Replace the Black area with a piece of plexi-glass or some semi-clear plastic. Many "Home Centers" or local hardware stores have scraps of plexi that they might give you or sell an a (much) reduced price. Even a piece of transparent, (it doesn't have to be optically clear) Tupperware cover.
Cut it to the right size to fit inside the cut out, or large enough to be glued inside the lens itself.
Use a good glue that will bond plastic, remember it will have considerable vibration over it's life.
The model car glue may or may not be good enough, as it depends on the type of plastic you are adding in.
You can experiment on the Black piece you cut out and the scrap sample if you need to.
Glue in the clear plastic piece and let it dry (or set) according to the directions of the glue.

This is the Re-assembled Unit. The plate now tucks up under the Brake Light. Although it is sort of a sport bike look, I think it compliments the Bob Tail rear fender. It also opens up the view of that BIG rear tire.

Re-assemble the parts temporarily to make sure everything fits. Once you're sure, polish all that nice chrome (when will ever get the chance to get in here again) and use some clear paint to cover the newly cut edges to prevent rust.
You can weld the new straightened corner shut if you have access to welding. I'm not sure it will need it but if you 'feel the need'.
Well now, all thats left is re-assmble, re-connect the wires, and admire the 'new look' of your 'truda.

	Here is what the finished unit looks like on Otto's 1400. For more of Otto's customization see Otto's Intruder in the WorkShop.

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To send mail to me: WorkShop@YankeeCruisah.com